Serena Sutcliffe: Vintage September 21–October 5. 32hl/ha. 56% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Franc, and a very good year for both varieties. 13% ABV. This was an ideal-scenario vintage that has been stunning from the start. Amazingly vivacious and vibrant, with terrific black fruit and juicy tannins. The great battle is with the 2000, which had a much higher yield, and I wonder whether the 1998 will outstay it—but it is an abstract question, since few of us will be around to see the denouement, and meanwhile they are both fabulous Cheval Blancs.