Richard Mayson: The first great post-phylloxera vintage. Still brick red in color, with an amazing pink hue then a browning rim; gentle dusty nose, with a touch of milk chocolate; still rich and sweet, with dark chocolate at the core and dusty tannins. Still has grip and depth after all this time. Amazingly youthful and tight-knit. This was the best of a number of variable bottles. Not voluptuous (and possibly it never was) but still elegant. 18+?