Jasper Morris: Fine mid-red, with first signs of garnet, but still bright and clear. Vibrant, fresh, red fruit with a tannin or two. Another wine in the 1993 style, but the fruit is a little less distinguished behind. A chalky mineral feeling comes back at the end. Retasted at two o’clock, by when it had opened out considerably, needing food and forbearance. Perhaps a bottle to be shared between two so as to watch its slow development, rather than one to open for a larger table in the expectation of immediate seduction.