Jasper Morris: Pale gold. A glorious, heady nose of fully mature wine from a fractionally underripe year: a hint of Jerusalem artichoke, but not dominant. Almost truffle, so this could be a foie gras wine, or perhaps ris de veau. Really fascinating nose, a touch of biscuit, but all these notes are positive because you just want to keep sniffing. Still fresh in the mouth as the acidity leaps out on the finish. So not for foie gras after all. Jacques Lardière intervenes to talk of the phénomène de digestion en train when you get truffles, meaning there is still a tension in the wine waiting to evolve.