Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A broad and open nose, combining red berry notes and spices, then a slender palate without heaviness, but lacking perhaps some velvet by comparison with its peers. A clean, stylish wine, less striking from this sample than others. 16.5

Michael Schuster: Dense and minerally on the nose; well balanced in a slightly more extractive style with a firmly tannic frame round a refined, elegant, grapey fruit of gentle complexity and good fruit and scent length. The good core fruit from a fine terroir is clear, the slightly sinewy frame is a question of interpretation and taste. Will need a bit of time, this. 2015–25. 15/15.5