Michael Schuster: Sweet, concentrated, blackberry and cassis to smell; gently muscular middleweight with a softly fleshy core within a fine-textured tannin; a warm, pure, sweetly ripe, cassissy fruit, a touch of mineral still coming through the super-ripeness, with clear, spicy, vanilla, toasty, new-wood aromas and a fine, firm, dry oak tannin texture; excellent, warm, oak-spicy and gently ripe fruit length. This is richer and more concentrated than the Rollan de By made by the same team. Its garage style, speaking more of its winemaking than its origin, while not coarse, loses some of the nicely defined, refreshing, lightly gravely aromatic character of the “standard” wine. That said, a tasteful and not excessive micro-cuvée style. 2014–22+ 15/15.5