Michel Bettane: Rustic tannins; feeling of no perfect berries and no clean skins. Good body but foursquare. Perhaps better in five years, when the tannins will soften. 14.5

Thierry Desseauve: Arabica coffee, herbs, dark fruits; generous in alcohol, full-bodied, but the tannins are dry, and the finish lacks freshness. 15.5

Michael Schuster: Sweetly ripe nose, almost to a point of raisiny fruit; very firm tannic texture, rather overly dry for a refined core fruit; good-quality terroir, here masked a bit by the slightly coarse, dry tannins. Good but will need plenty of bottle age, and I’m not sure the dry texture will ever integrate completely. 2016–30. 16.5