Michael Schuster: Nicely balanced middleweight with firm tannins and a fresh acidity. A good moderate (Graves) concentration, with very nice purity of ripe, mineral-backed cassis fruit and a gentle complexity; fresh and juicy, with a long, fruit-emphatic finish. Stylish Malartic, needing 6–8 years. 2017–25. 16/16.5

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Yet another very complete wine; very big but perfectly harmonious, with lots of momentum and style, perfectly respectful of its terroir. 18