Michael Schuster: Very ripe, roasted black fruit on the nose, but without excess, overripeness, or raisin character; rich, concentrated, dense, and tannic wine, with a vital “red fruit” acidity defining and giving relief to the fruit mass; black-fruit ripeness, with a dense mineral core, framed by fine, firm tannin, very long and complex across the palate, great clinging persistence on the finish. A Cheval of great density and a clear but utterly refined masculine style. If there is a similar ripeness to 1990 and 1998, there is a less immediately seductive, fleshy sensuality; instead, we have more matter, more structure, and more long-term promise. Effortlessly compact. Very fine, long-term Cheval, with great scope, presence, length, and prospects. Will need 15 years plus. 2025–50. 18.5/19+

Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Arguably the best Cheval Blanc since 1998 and one of the future legendary wines from the property. At this level, no other wine is showing such an amazing combination of silkiness and vivacity. The tannins are extraordinary. As a whole, the wine is svelte and elegant, with remarkably refined texture; intense, with powerful depth. 19.5