Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Rich and tightly wound texture, with a rare vinosity for this vintage; great length on the palate, the classic smoky tones of the terroir already showing. 18

Michael Schuster: black-red; dense to smell; ripe blackberry fruit and gravel aromas; elegantly balanced middleweight, with a fine concentration of matter but also a very firm tannin, plus an acidity that renders the wine slightly austere and “brisk” at the moment; bright, firm, red fruit in flavor, open-textured, mineral, very dry and linear; quite complex and with good length. currently short on charm, that’s for sure. Long-term prospects! 2022–32+. 16.5