Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Linear and long on the palate; elegant length, firm but elegant tannins; the style isn’t particularly smooth, but it has personality. 17

Michael Schuster: densely fruity nose; a chewy, muscular, rather burly balance, with moderate fruit framed by a firm, dry tannin, the smile not exactly there on the face of this one. a relative austerity of fruit, pure enough, but rather gripped and dominated by its tannins. plenty of sappy fruit there (which will show through with food and with time) and with good, light, scented length. a chewy style, not to my taste. Long term. 2024–34. 16.5