Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold in color. Intriguing scents of dessert apple and soft, moist tobacco, of warm summer winds and of pain d’épice—very southern. All achieved very subtly, nonetheless. On the palate, the wine is full, vivid, and, compared to its peers, slightly more acid-structured, yet the acidity is beautifully ripe and carries fair aromatic force (more of those gingery autumn apples). Chewy, deep, stony at the very end. There’s a sense of outstanding purity and drive here. It’s hard for these wines to compete with the finest from Germany in terms of aromatic articulacy and delicacy, but I love the broad-shouldered generosity they harbor and the way that they take this noble grape and give it a mealiness and a chewiness that can almost evoke white Burgundy. This wine is a fine example of that. 17.5

Andreas Larsson: Slightly sweeter aromas of green apple, pear, and quince; bone-dry on the palate, with a high freshness and youthful fruit; a rather restrained and elegant example. 15

Stephan Reinhardt: Greenish white-yellow. Clear and aromatic nose. Racy palate, very pure and a little bit drying in the end. Purist in character. I miss a mid-palate (or some sweetness) here. Quite powerful. Not in balance today—a little bit searing. But there is hope for a better future. 15