Andrew Jefford: Medium gold in color. Fresh, lively, and pure, though without a lot of focus or precision. On the palate, this is broad, vivid, fresh, lively—but it is all these qualities in the abstract; rather, without the corporeal fruit notes to attach flesh and drama to the wine. (There is some pithy lime, but that’s about it.) Despite being full, then, it is a little fleshless. In terms of vinosity, extract, and minerality, too, it is a distinguished wine: packed with the secondary virtues, though low on the primary ones. Good mealtime Riesling but not one to rhapsodize over. 14.5

Andreas Larsson: A rich and fruity nose, with some smoky and caramelized aromas, hinting at sweetness, but the palate is bone-dry and strict; there is, however, a viscous texture, plenty of fruit, and a high degree of acidity. Good length; classic bone-dry style. 15.5

Stephan Reinhardt: Bright golden color. Ripe fruit flavors on the complex nose. Bone-dry, clear, and elegant texture, well balanced, complex, and mineral. There is nothing spectacular, but this wine will keep its form for many years. A great classic. A very mineral and complex wine that does not care about fruit or sex. It’s a wine for monks—and for wine lovers who love wines made for monks. Purest of the pure. The panel ordered a second bottle, which was warmer, so not really comparable. The fruit aromas were more intense. The palate was round but as mineral as the first bottle. Very pure and salty, rich and yeasty, but bone-dry and full of character. 17