Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Prunes on the nose (as so often this year) with lots of chewy flesh and noble, albeit slightly rasping, tannins. Not as evolved as some of its peers, but equally vinous and perfectly in tune with the vintage. 17

Michael Schuster: Dense, scented, minerally nose; lovely, elegant, medium-weight balance of ripe fruit, subtly fresh acidity, and fine, firm tannin; very sweet-cored, mineral-scented, mouth-filling, and long to taste and finish. Excellent Haut-Bailly, with characteristic finesse, richness, too, but a tannic backbone that will mean at least a ten-year wait. 2018–30. 16/16.5+