Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Serious stuff. Exceptional volume and density on the palate, even by comparison with its peers, plus very tight texture and firm tannins. All the makings of a vin de garde, with uncompromising structure and flavors. A prototypical Pessac-Léognan. 17

Michael Schuster: Fresh cassis and mineral nose; elegant medium-full wine, delicately fresh, finely tannic; long, ripe, even, mineral scented Graves, not big but complete; a lovely combination of sweet fruit and gently mouthcoating scent, with excellent fruit persistence. Classic Graves, and a complete, fine Malartic. 2014–28. 16/16.5