Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Dense and fat, with a style all of its own but quite discreet on the nose at this stage—not what one would normally expect of the pre-bottle wine. One senses a wine with considerable substance but needing a year’s élevage to show its stuff—quite like the Malartic in this respect. 17.5+

Michael Schuster: Pale gold; fresh, fruity, vivid lemon and grapefruit nose, with the 21 percent Sauvignon Blanc very present; beautifully balanced, taut, full wine where the acidity gives a very linear, almost a lean impression at the moment; long, lively, lemony, and complex flavor, generous in both mineral and Sauvignon aromas as well as Semillon fat; firm, contained, resonantly mouthfilling wine with excellent length. Splendid Laville. 2018–30+. 18/18.5