Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A broad wine, voluminous on the palate and built for long aging—impressive substance but unadorned aromas. Hugely promising, but definitely needs eight to ten years’ bottle aging to reach its peak. 17

Michael Schuster: Pale lemon; subtle, guava, and mineral nose; full, vigorous, elegantly balanced wine; ripe and juicy in fruit, fresh and beautifully defined by its vital acidity, class, raciness, and length from an abundance of fruit and mineral aromas. Lovely white Malartic. 2012–20+. 16.5/17