Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A terrifically stylish wine, elegantly defined from the first whiff, with smooth but intense body and impeccable depth. One of the greats of 2008. 18

Michael Schuster: Dense, but closed to smell; elegantly balanced, restrained medium-weight with a fresh acidity and fine, gently textured if also slightly oak-dry tannins; quietly concentrated, without being strong, fresh, delicate fruit, creamily oaky, with an attractively racy mid-palate and lovely, fragrant length. Long, graceful, complete, understated St-Emilion. Very nice indeed. 2015–30. 16.5/17+