Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: An absolute masterpiece of the vintage, made by François Mitjavile. The wine combines an airy grace with a fantastically subtle nose, infinitely delicate palate, and elegant persistence. 19

Michael Schuster: Inky color; very ripe, spicy black fruit on the nose; dense yet elegantly opulent balance with a very fine tannin and a relatively supple acidity for the vintage; a sweet, generous, velvety wine, pure and mouth-watering in flavor, fleshy yet graceful, enveloping without being thick, very long and subtle across the palate and with a long, gorgeously aromatic finish. Grand, gratifying wine, notably fleshy in this sometimes slightly severe vintage. 2018–30+. 17.5/18.5