Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A very refined Valandraud that develops a smooth, well-balanced velvet body—deep but light and airy with classy character. 17.5

Michael Schuster: Dense, minerally, almost roasted fruit nose; beautifully balanced, with a lively acidity and fine, firm tannin framing a rich core of ripe fruit; long, concentrated, and refined in taste, with a spicy complexity and excellent length. Muscularity but without excess. Since Jean-Luc Thunevin’s wife, Murielle, has been making the wine (the last four vintages?), there has been a clear change in style. The wines are less tannic and extracted, with notably more elegance, grace, and finesse. Feminine, as opposed to masculine, vinification? However one defines it, a change for the better—for my taste anyway. 2018–30+. 17/17.5