Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: A concentrated and harmonious Rouget, combining all the usual strength of this cru with the balanced style typical of this vintage: fresh red-berry fruit on the nose; full, fleshy, and immediately tasty on the palate with tight but ripe tannins and lovely length. Cellar with confidence. 17

Michael Schuster: Dense ripe Merlot to smell, creamy from the new oak; a very nicely balanced, full and plummy, gently tannic wine; rich without being strong, sweetly ripe, dark-chocolate-tinged, blackberry and mineral fruit, with fine length. In the image of rich yet elegant, classic Pomerol, and if this is the final blend (I didn’t taste it at the château), it is by some way the most refined Rouget for a long time. I find the combination here of sweetly ripe Merlot informed by subtly creamy new oak particularly seductive! Its style (as opposed to its quality) reminded me strongly of my first impressions of 1970 Trotanoy—a very long time ago! Here’s hoping… 2015–25. 16/17