Stephen Brook: Delightful nose, pure apricot fruit, and a pronounced stoniness. This is really stylish. The freshness of the attack is aided by a touch of C02, but the raciness is very appealing. There is a slight sweetness that doesn’t seem botrytis-derived; it’s balanced by the fruit concentration and acidity. It’s also mineral without being austere. Long, tangy, and moreish. All it lacks is complexity, but that may develop with more time in bottle. 17

Simon Larkin: Intriguing aromas here: herb and tobacco, with greengage-like fruit behind. Cool and bright on the palate, with beautifully layered fruit, generous and mouth-coating, yet still poised and restrained. It possesses that tangy citrus quality, still herb-infused, and almost an element of Asian aromatic spice. By no means a light wine, there is admirable richness and power here, but the expression shows very fine clarity, balance, and persistence. Impressive, as if we have moved up a grade. 17.5

Andreas Larsson: Ripe and fruity on the nose, the palate is rather full, with some green and vegetal notes. Generous fruit, but a bit one-dimensional. 13