Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Great anise fragrance, very noble, very St-Julien, magnificently rich texture, distinguished cedar and black-truffle tannins, bringing to mind certain wines from Clos du Marquis. Perfect balance—a grand vin. 18.5

Michael Schuster: Crisply minerally, blackcurrant Cabernet to smell; rich, vivid, elegant wine, a nicely concentrated, finely tannic middleweight balance, dense yet not heavy; sweetly ripe yet fresh in flavor, long and classy to taste, long and aromatic to finish. There is a sweetness and gentleness of tannin here that makes for a lovely texture and a particularly refined expression of Lagrange, where, in the past, there has always been abundant fruit but tannins perhaps lacking a little in finesse. A wonderfully polished Lagrange—a tribute to both Marcel Ducasse’s two decades of groundwork and now Bruno Eynard’s additional fine-tuning. 2018–30. 16.5/17+