Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: 2009 was Château Margaux’s year. Never has the white achieved such harmony, such refined flavors, and above all, such a close correlation with the red. The most impressive of all the 2009 whites we tasted (Haut-Brion included). 19.5

Michael Schuster: Fine, fresh, cedary, ripe guava-and-gooseberry nose; beautifully balanced wine, with a lovely length of ripe, juicy guava and gooseberry Sauvignon flavors; intense, vital, aromatically complex, and with great length. A more elegant, restrained balance than recently, with under 14% rather than over 15% alcohol. 2012–20+. 17.5/18