Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Imposing nose, scented with toasty oak, but there is fine underlying sweetness of fruit. Rich, plump, concentrated, spicy, and vigorous, with a curious mineral quality. Refreshed by quite good acidity, so it’s neither heavy nor extracted. This has poise and elegance, as well as power and length. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red; a little lingering opacity. Fresh, sweet, and pure-fruited, with true aromatic refinement. Deft and elegant. Intense, deep, and plunging, initially rather gothic in profile compared to some of its peers, with spires of acidity and tannin. However, the fruit mass that links them is ripe and full, and the overall sense of balance and equilibrium persists into the finish. True to its vintage in its edginess and its acuity, and perhaps the purest wine yet in terms of its fruit quality. This is most apparent in the finish, which is sweet and long… and almost even warm. Fresh, sweet blackcurrants with no hint of bitterness, and a full 25 seconds on into the finish, makes this something of a vintage triumph. 17.5