Alison Buchanan: Deep yellow-gold/pale amber, this is a beautiful-looking wine. The nose delivers the familiar hot brioche component, lifted by citrus zest and spice. The palate is unctuous and very ripe but fresh, clean, and zesty. This will work with food. 16

Stephen Brook: Muted buttery nose, ripe stone fruits, and a slight but restrained exoticism. Rich, full-bodied, concentrated; has weight and density; fine texture, with some pronounced yet not excessive oakiness. Has spice and vigor and some complexity, too. There’s power, but there’s nothing ungainly or forced here. A fine Chardonnay with a strong personality. Long and sustained. 18

Oz Clarke: Deep gold. Big, rich, old-style but quite attractive. Touch of rubbery cream but pretty good, full, rich, old-style nut syrup. It’s a little bit like a basic steak-and-kidney pie set among an array of Magret de Canard, but it’s pretty decent old-timer stuff. 15