Alison Buchanan: Pale yellow-gold—we are back in vanilla-custard land with this wine. Unctuous, full, and ripe, it evokes warm pastry notes, pain au raisin, and grilled, buttered citrus fruit. Opulent certainly, it does have acidity to balance—sustained, toasted finish. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Muted oaky nose, with some lurking tropical-fruit aromas. Rich, full-bodied, quite tight and powerful; has some grip and concentration, as well as spice and vigor. The oak is quite pronounced, but this has more energy and pizzazz than most of these Sonoma wines. Acidity balances the ripeness nicely, so that there’s no excess anywhere. A sumptuous yet bracing and stylish wine. Doesn’t have huge length, so best drunk within 3 years. 17.5

Oz Clarke: A pale green-gold. Attractive puffed-wheat nose. Pretty good. A little more acid than I expected, but there’s a good, nutty, toasty character, too, and some viscosity. It isn’t thrilling, but it’s a pretty nice, direct Chardie, though the acid is a little intrusive. Pity, since the finish is toasty and attractive. 14.5