Alison Buchanan: Lemon-gold in color, this has the nose of biscuit and citrus fruit. The palate is rather taut and lively, fresh and bright—a far cry from many of the rather more obese samples, and probably less of a crowd pleaser, but it will be good with food. A bit of a thoroughbred. 15

Stephen Brook: Dumb nose. Fresh, crisp attack, with good fruit concentration and a refreshing sherbetty quality. Stone fruits rather than citrus, but without any overripeness. Well balanced and stylish, even if far from complex. Moderate length. 16

Oz Clarke: Pale gold. Pleasant, slightly macaroony nose. Good, rich, rather overripe style, but it is quite good. Full; a bit fat, but good, nutty weight and some acid balance. Not that focused, but it‘s good, somewhat solid stuff. 15