Alison Buchanan: Rich yellow-gold, this has an assertive nose, rich in honeyed orchard fruit and flowers, with some understated caramel notes. On the palate, warm apples and pears come through, combined with vanilla cream. A big wine, this shows decent balance but is probably a one- or a half- glasser. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Lean, appley nose, quite fresh and bracing. Ripe and juicy with a hint of sweetness; has some concentration if not much intensity of flavor. One-dimensional but lively, with an appealing toastiness. For me it’s marred by a confected quality that undermines is purity of fruit. 15

Oz Clarke: Fair green-gold. Nose of Kerrygold butter—yum! Still some nice melted butter, but good, acid apple flavor and nutty oak too. This is pretty good. Quite cool in style, the acid a little high, but pretty good yeast and nut depth. 16