Alison Buchanan: Lustrous gold in color, this presents a rather odd nose for Chardonnay—rather savory in character, with some mineral interest. The palate is richly textured, creamy, and full but, ultimately, rather tiring despite the acidity. Very toasted and buttery on the finish. 14

Stephen Brook: Attactive tangy nose, lime and pears, and a firm, oaky background. Fairly rich, sleek, intense, with some good acidity and that oaky undertow. But very much on the surface: brisk and well honed, but probably giving all it has to give. The finish is fresh and bracing, so this may best be drunk young to retain that immediate fruitiness and vigor. Quite good length. 16

Oz Clarke: Quite bright, fresh gold-green. Attractive nose, fresh and perfumed, yet some toffee, too. Fair acid and fair minerality. Good, full, fun—not thrilling, but it has more of the component parts, even if the nut, toast, and full, dry apple fruit don’t quite fit together. 15