Alison Buchanan: Rich yellow-gold/very pale amber, with flashes of green. Rather closed on the nose, taut and mineral. This is rather intriguing, since it is beautifully restrained, surprising, even elegant, with toasted buttered character only coming through on a long finish, refreshed by citrus zest. 12

Stephen Brook: Discreet nose, apple and apricot; oak well integrated. Medium-bodied, sleek, attractive texture, moderately concentrated with some elegance. Restrained but perhaps a touch too restrained, lacking some oomph on the finish. Medium length, and fades away to blankness. 14.5

Oz Clarke: Pleasant pale gold. Fairly full-on oak, verging on the spicy caramel, but it manages to stay dry and therefore works. Good mellow acidity, a lick of finely polished oak, and an attractive, full, dry flavor of nuts and peach balanced by lemon and softened with caramel. 16