Alison Buchanan: Shimmering green-gold in color, this is very closed on the nose, revealing very little. Not too cold, either. The palate presents rather restrained orchard and stone-fruit character complemented by warm pastry notes. Rather classical in style, this does not scream California. It is just a well-made wine. 15.5

Stephen Brook: Muted nose, quite oaky; apricot, banana. Medium-bodied, silky and fresh, well balanced, but marred by a slight cloying tone on the finish. An attractive mouthful, but it does lack complexity. Seems to have some added acidity on the finish. A sound and palatable wine but with little personality. 14

Oz Clarke: Fairly pale straw. Very mild style. A little minerality, but also lifted volatility that needs more body weight to work. It also slowly warms up in the mouth and shows a little more richness, but it isn’t particularly interesting. The acetic edge doesn’t really grab me. Well, it does grab me, but not where I want it to. 12.5