Alison Buchanan: Cripes! Someone has harvested butter. On the nose there can be no other tasting note… and then some orchard fruit sneaks in stage left to offset the richness. Palate is surprisingly fresh and gregarious after the nose, with good acidity and a fresh lift. Well handled. 16

Stephen Brook: Shy nose: apricot, peach, mango. Soft, sagging, plump, with little acidity or zest. 10

Oz Clarke: Melted-butter nose and a hint of perfume. Palate full and fat. Lots of fluffy apple and pear flesh. Good, full, quite fatty, buttery style—but in balance. Not a turgid malo style but a ripe round style. Good, typically attractive, southern style. 16.5