Alison Buchanan: Rich gold in color, this has the air of custard made with a plethora of fresh vanilla. It is hard to know what you could serve with it, except that there is a fashion for fish with vanilla. It is massive on the nose. The palate is actually slightly more subdued and reveals some warm orchard-fruit tones—apples and pears warmed with butter and cream. Big, though, and a tad tiring. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Somewhat overripe nose, peachy, orangey, with a syrupy tone. Rounded, juicy, with a fruit-juice character rather than vinosity. Rather obvious, with a hint of alcohol on the finish. One-dimensional, with a slightly metallic finish. A forced, arm-twisting wine with no luminosity. 13

Oz Clarke: Fair body and decent acidity. Good, full flavor but no massive character. Good apple flesh, some lemon, and some pleasant nut-syrupy softness. Quite a pleasant, acid-balanced wine, without any great excitement. 15