Alison Buchanan: Pale gold in color, this is rather restrained on the nose, taut and mineral. Not remotely what I would automatically associate with California Chardonnay, it is pure, taut, and yet ripe, with a classical framework and a refreshing lift. A finely boned thoroughbred of a wine—though probably does not get the scores. 16.5

Stephen Brook: Muted aromas, rather dominated by oak. Good attack, with some acidity and zest. Stone-fruit flavors and a sweet-and-sour tang that suggests this comes from a fairly cool area. This bracing character is welcome, though it’s not a wine with huge complexity or depth. Moderate length, with a perky, refreshing finish. 15.5

Oz Clarke: Big, old-style, nut-husk smell. Big, phenolic, high acid, high extract, rough oak, and a basically anachronistic hollow whale of a wine. I’m trying to think of what might make this enjoyable—which dish, perhaps—but I can think of none that are easily available in a wine region. 10