Alison Buchanan: Rich old gold in color. This is, I suspect, what most people believe to be benchmark: oaky smoky and super-ripe, with lashings of butter and vanilla cream. Better balance than many here, and not as tiring, with good freshness and focus, though the acidity is rather high. 14.5

Stephen Brook: Oaky, peachy aromas. Medium-bodied, gently sweet, soft-textured, and a lot of alcohol on the finish. Coarse, unbalanced, flabby. 9

Oz Clarke: Quite intense gold-green. Strong apple and pear blossom—round, full, soft fruit. Fresh, attractive, rather waxy texture, and decent acid and bright fruit. Modern, bright, attractive; some mineral and some depth. Very subtly oaked but a good fresh, vibrant feel and texture. 16.5