Alison Buchanan: Pale yellow-gold, this evokes the aromas of a French bakery: warm pastry, vanilla, and delicate spice, allied to a warm compote of orchard fruit. Rich and ripe, this has an attractive balance and good precision—well handled and rather elegant and poised. 16.5

Stephen Brook: Rather confected nose, peach syrup. Rich, opulent, lush, and veering toward blowsiness, despite a vein of acidity. Plenty of fruit but one-dimensional. Blunt finish, so little length or complex

Oz Clarke: Fairly full gold. Baked apples and raisin, Danish-pastry nose, and Lactobacillus. Big, full, overripe, acid and raisiny fruit, with malolactic cream and a whiff of frankincense. Yes, I wonder where that idea came from, too. 10