Alex Hunt: Amber-colored; quite dark and gluey on the nose, then a seamless if slightly evolved, dusty palate. The acidity and bitter components aren’t quite enough to prevent the finish from cloying - 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-russet orange in color. Tangy, warm, sweet, rich: harmonious, though a little vague and featureless, too. There is some wild cèpe lurking behind the smooth sheen. The vivid, searching acidity here totally dominates the structure of the palate, scything across the tongue and trailing orchard-fruit flavor behind it. It almost, indeed, tastes “dry,” though it is almost very pure and very concentrated. There’s a long aftertaste, packed with mineral salts and wild-mushroom allusions. The result is quite hard to mark. In intensity, it is one of the outstanding wines of the day, yet I suspect that many drinkers might hope for something a little sweeter and more fruitladen. I will mark for concentration and intensity - 17

Mark Savage: Gloriously rich golden color and a complex aroma ranging from litchis to cheese, with many other things lurking in the undergrowth. Interesting botrytis character here, but the prime raw material must have been good to start with, because the concentration works, and there is nice balancing acidity and modest alcohol. Overall, there is an earthy individuality that helps it stand out from the crowd - 17.5