Alex Hunt: A bizarre style, with a green-amber color and an aroma dominated by apple-skin aldehyde character. The palate is all baked apple and raisins, with an unappealing kick of aldehyde on the finish, too - 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Dark russet orange in color. Very oldstyle now, with controlled oxidation as a complexing factor. Evidently ullaged, but it has its own charm: the mists rolling in off the hills, the leaves silently decomposing as winter draws on, the barrels being trundled around the cellars. And all of the above echoes through the palate, too. The oxidation adds a little bite of its own to the cleansing bite of the acidity, and there’s no doubt that wines made in this style have ample umami. The autumn apple fruits are resonant. The lower alcohol here makes for slightly less palate tightness and succulence, and there is also something a little fungal in here, too— it’s not pristine or spotless. But all in all, delicious, and I’m very glad that our tasting also includes wines in this style - 15

Mark Savage: Quite deep color. More evident oxidation here and a rather rustic, clumsy character to the fruit, as if the juice were left hanging about too long with the skins before the fermentation got under way. A smell of cold tea leaves? A wine where the grapes missed out on the Rolls-Royce treatment, I feel. So it lacks everything in the field of finesse, but it still gives pleasure if the sights are not set too high - 12 ·