Michael Edwards: A great mature Chardonnay Champagne, almost certainly. Now more Spanish gold than Welsh gold; fine bead of tiny bubbles. On first opening, the aromas are surprisingly taut and clenched—is this perhaps a new recent disgorgement, to freshen up a 17-yearold wine. But with air, that lovely scent of toasty, roasty hazelnuts soars up. The fruit, though beautifully ripe, is perhaps more loose-limbed and less intense than I remember in recent years, but this is still a memorable, exceptional Champagne that may start to decline very slowly from 2013. I have taken half a mark off my score, because the wine is at, or nearly at, its peak for me 18

Simon Field: Lovely evolved nose; truffle and hints of mushroom; evolved, indeed, to within an inch of perfection; a benchmark for those who love rich styles that are adamantine in their vinosity and sparkling to their very core 18.5

Tom Stevenson: Absolutely gorgeous toasty-rich fruit of the most amazing richness, purity, and finesse 20