Tim Atkin: Still deep color, rich. Some VA, high-toned nose. Fresh acidity, slightly savory palate, nice freshness and tension in the wine; some Cabernet, good length and complexity. Complex, gherkin and wild-strawberry notes. Long, refined finish. 18.5

Jesús Barquín: Medium ruby-cherry. Here is a different wine (from the majority of this tasting), with an elegant classicism, long, with fruit serving as foundation for tertiary elements (fine leather, kirsch). Refreshing acidity, very long. Complex indeed, yet inviting to drink for sheer pleasure. 18

Alex Hunt: A very savory, meat-extract nose, with some raisiny fruit behind it. Unusually in this tasting, the palate feels a bit meager and threadbare. There is alcohol, tannin, a “glycerol” feel, and so on, yet the flavor has gaps in it. A certain lack of vigor and freshness and, even at ten years old, fruit. 12.5