Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: François Mitjavile has pulled off an expansive Tertre with extraordinary energy. With an artist’s touch, he knew how to combine that energy with unforgettably elegant aromas and a soft core. In this millésime plus (“year of more”), as he calls it (more concentration, more liveliness, more tannins), he has also been able to add more balance. 19

Michael Schuster: Dense, slightly roasted, dark ripe fruit to smell; large-scale, powerful wine, rich, ample, and elegant, defined by particularly fine tannin and a vital acidity; very pure, sweetly ripe fruit, juicy yet racily fresh. Long, subtle, complex; typically full of mouth-coating aromas; terrific scented length. A touch warm on the finish, necessarily, but the usual lovely combination of power and delicacy. 2022–40+. 18/18.5