Jesús Barquín: Very dark, with a sort of cool Atlantic profile and evident but acceptable Brett notes. Very tannic, with a tannin unlike any other in this tasting, surely heavily touched with Cabernet Sauvignon. Hard to rate in this context. 18

Simon Field: Deep core, balsamic, hint of Brett maybe; black-fruit nose; palate marries the sweet and the savory, with good supporting acidity and rounded fruit at the end. Astoundingly fresh; tannins firm yet not overwhelming. Ancient and modern. 18

Jancis Robinson: Amazingly deep and dark—looks like a Bordeaux from the 1990s! Except for the mature rusty rim. Very complete and complex. A teensy bit decayed in a damp-fur/Brett way, but overall pretty impressive. Much more so than the bottle of 1950 red Rioja Linden Wilkie very kindly once gave me. Still some tannin in evidence. Thought to contain some Cabernet. Needs a bit more freshness. Drink 1980–2015. 17.5