Jesús Barquín: Intense color, likely the deepest in the entire tasting. The nose offers candied strawberries creamy notes—unusual, poorly assembled perhaps. On the palate, slightly aggressive tannin. 16

Simon Field: Near opaque at core, suitably inscrutable at the rim, this is an extraordinary wine, given its age, but avowedly extraordinary in any event. Strawberry, dense peaty rich flavors, mealy and aromatic—testament to both the longevity of the vintage and the quality, à l’époque, of the house. 17

Jancis Robinson: Very deep and crimson. Surely there is some Cabernet in here? Sweet and rich and flattering but not especially Rioja, except for a vaguely lactic quality. Pretty impressive. Not as haunting and graceful as Cheval 1964 tasted recently, but a very valid wine that is still going strong despite its great age. Very firm tannins. Drink 1980–2020. 17.5