Jesús Barquín: Caramel, kirsch, spice, underbrush. Textbook style but not particularly remarkable for its roundness or finesse. 16.5

Simon Field: Honest garnet core, luminous rim; gamey laurel nose, palate quite foursquare, with herbal almost peaty notes and fine supporting acidity and good length. Classy and long. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Dark, lively ruby. Sweet and rich and dusty. A little rustic and slightly oxidized but worthy. On the way down. Eventually this became a supermarket brand, but initially it was a Frenchman fleeing phylloxera, Charles Serres. Drink 1970–2000. 17