Jesús Barquín: Toasty but not smoky notes; more on the caramel path, with faint fruit aromas. The palate is powerful, with good structure and flesh and evident but refined tannin. 17.5

Simon Field: Gently evolved color, slightly caramelized nose; wild strawberries, cassis, and forest floor. Palate assertive but not stentorian, strawberry fruit evidenced and impressive; nice length and elegance at the finish. 16.5

Jancis Robinson: Mid-, slightly cloudy ruby. Very rich and plump and flattering—not unlike a 1966 Bordeaux! Then a bit tough and tart. Past its best. Like the Pomal 1978, this promised much more on the nose than it delivered on the palate. Drying out. Drink 1980–2000. 16