Jesús Barquín: Spicy nose of kirsch, caramel, and autumn forest. Similar palate, with good length—fresh and clean. Initially very pleasant, it drops rather abruptly after a short while, showing increasing oxidation. 15

Simon Field: Brick-red color, hints of a dramatic Turner seascape; nose a little mute; smoke and polish and residual black fruit lurking in the background. Palate is refined and elegant, with hints of charcoal and cloves, fine balancing acidity, and a dark smoky backdrop. Drying a little: Miss Havisham before the fire. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Clear rusty red. Only medium intense on the nose, but with some heady velvety appeal. On the palate, the fruit is fading and the wine seems a little light and rustic. Fades a bit on the end. Drying out. Drink 1998–2008. 15