Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Fine creamy and toasty developed nose, with lots of layers. Flowers, yeast, bruised apples, and soft spiciness. Rich palate, with stylish creamy mousse. Voluptuous, harmonious and velvety. Complete, with plenty of character. 19.5

Simon Field: Rich evolved color; truffley nose, with an attractive savory profile and a palate that, with no lack of nonchalance, confirms the reputation of both the vintage in question and this particular category of Champagne. Bravo! 18.5

Tom Stevenson: A superlative blanc de noirs, equal in its own way to [the Krug Clos d’Ambonnay 1998]. Not quite the intensity of [the Krug], but even more finesse. This Champagne is simply blistering on the nose. Really quite extraordinary. They both have their own balance that makes them equally great for totally different reasons. 20