Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold color. Fragrant nose of confectionary, viennoiserie, cream, and flowers. Soft, fruity, and fresh palate. Lightweight with medium length. Interesting aromas and lively palate. 16.5

Simon Field: Youthful nose, with citric fruit and white peach, and behind that something a little more interesting—sauvage, almost; this translates well on to the palate, with the natural ripeness of the vintage captured and harnessed into a plate of definition, power, and length. It tires a little on second tasting, however. 16

Tom Stevenson: Rich and satisfying vanilla-dusted redcurrants and dried fruit—this Champagne is excellent but really needs a couple of years to show its full potential. 18