Essi Avellan: Medium-deep straw color, with pink hues. Fresh, fruit-driven nose of ripe apple and gentle spiciness. Very dry and tart on the palate, which could use more sugar. Juicy and fleshy but straightforward. 15

Simon Field: Gentle lemon coloring belies an attractive nose with floral elements, backed up by stone fruit and a splash of honey. Palate is a serious, low-dosage example, flinty and long, with taut acidity and a pebbly surface; a reward of white chocolate on the finish. A sermon in stone. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Very fresh, firm, assertive Pinot fruit, supported by an excellent pincushion mousse that will get even better as the wine evolves. Not as deep or as rich as some, but it has an intensity suggesting a core of undeveloped extract. It also has more class than most blancs de noirs and should develop both complexity and finesse over the next year or two. 18.5